The biggest challenge for fibre manufacturers is to follow emerging fashion directions, push innovative research & development and maintain integrity of their product. We chose to showcase a deeper approach to technology, which through increased automation has given life to unique and creative development. In the case of linking, where we witnessed a shortage in manpower leading to an increase in automation, the technology has now advanced to create not only seamless knitting, but also 3 dimensional knitted structures.

We also chose to show how new techniques within dyeing processes open the market to luxury plant dyed fibres as well as how natural fibres blended with man-made fibres create a more balanced and sustainable approach.

Manufactures are urged to partner closer with technical stylists to ‘Push’ the boundaries of their machines, allowing them to adapt and adjust to new innovative and technical directions. Both fibre and machinery manufactures are also urged to create closer relationships and become more proactive in partnering with the Industry.

SPINEXPO^TM openly encourages new initiatives that aim to link all stages, suppliers and producers of the textile chain, aiming to create better products whilst respecting both ethical and environmental concerns and standards.

REVERSIBILITY: The theme for the upcoming trend directions at SPINEXPO^TM  New York and Shanghai.

Inspired by the mixed influences of populism and modernism underlined by the attitudes of results of polls in the recent world elections and the inward and outward-looking attitudes, SPINEXPO? chooses to investigate the concept of “Reversibility” and its application within textiles as well as the study of extremes in attitudes and concepts.

We also see the essence of reversibility in the functionalities of both yarns and garments whose performance and wearer interface changes dependent on being inside-out or outside-in. Yarns offer moisture wicking, anti-perspiration and coolness next to the skin, whilst generating warmth on the outside. Core yarns are also combined with thermal properties providing thermal insulation, warmth and comfort.

Key trend directions within the yarn presented at SPINEXPO show texture within corded yarns, compact within winter cottons and novelties, all of which have been air-spun to create beautifully lightweight yarns.

Yarns have finely brushed surfaces that are lightweight and super soft in handle, plush and velvety yarns add luxurious richness to knitted fabrics, matted and lightly felted surfaces add warmth, where metallic and filaments create diffused glimmers of shine.

We also showcase products that are less wasteful, reshape fashion and offer sustainable solutions that will not only influence the garment, but its wearer interface.

A broader yarn offer:

As fashion progresses towards usability and functionality, traditional knitwear as we know it is already in the process of transforming itself.  While world suppliers of natural fibres such as wools, cottons, silks and linens struggle with supply and demand of the markets as well as the effects of nature itself, manmade fibres are starting to present themselves as an attractive option due to their durability, added functionality, and some boasting ‘eco’ credentials.  Not only are yarns improving constantly, the technology we use to manufacture garments are also defying imagination in terms of automation and efficiency.

SPINEXPO^TM is proud to partner with new fibre innovators, such as Invista, Aquafil, The Woolmark Company, Mohair South Africa and technical spinners Filix, Formosa, Hywell and Polyace, whose fibres are already widely used in many spinners’ collections.

“In & Out” – an inspiration from the study of geometry involving special yarns with performance qualities, presented by Steven Oo

It is a conceptual exploration broken into three parts that addresses different uses for ‘Wholegarment’ technology using different types of yarns to create shape, drape and comfort.

The first group, ‘In’ focuses on using luxurious cashmere and mohair fibres from Consinee and Topline to present a capsule collection of garments to be worn whilst inside the home. Comfort is key and the silhouettes are not form fitting to allow emphasis of drape and flow.

The second group “&” features looks to be worn both inside and outside, to work and to dinner. Fancy yarns from Regal Lugang including alpaca and merino boucle’s.

The last group “Out” introduces garments to be worn specifically outdoors. The silhouettes are more form fitting and the yarns provided by Joinfair include fine cashmere and merino blended with Coolmax by Invista. Due to the functional aspect of this capsule, special performance qualities have been incorporated, such as a polyester fibre that draws moisture outwards and away from the wearer’s skin keeping the body cooler. The blending of this performance fibre into traditional yarns such as merino and cashmere, create yarns that retain comfort with an added layer of functionality.  

The beauty of Making – a story of influence: how we learn, create and co-create, presented by Eva de Laat

The AW 018 SPINEXPO theme has inspired us to question existing and future ways of making. What is the current state of active wear manufacturing?  What makes it unique and what are the external impacts that influence the process?

By working with different specialized fibre and yarn suppliers like Invista, Filix, Aquafil, Formosa, Xinao and Südwolle, we assess the making process and how to implement functions of compression and comfort on Santoni seamless and circular knitting machinery.  

Post process technology achieves a clean finish that compliments the clean production of seamless knitting and adds functions like additional strength, ventilation and texture.

Being based in both Europe and Asia has also influenced the graphical elements and form, taking inspiration from what we see around us, resulting in a mix of East and West.

The collections on display are divided into two areas.

The first area is a performance section called “Studious” featuring Invista and Santoni.

When making performance wear, we analyze the body and how a garment could influence or give benefit to an athlete. We ask ourselves which functions need to be placed where in the garment and what considerations need to be kept in mind?

Compression: to feed the muscles and minimize feeling heavy while remaining breathable. Comfort: where the skin/body is sensitive but maintaining a good fit to ensure the body can move freely. Shape: to correct body position and promote an active posture that remains lightweight.

The second section is our street wear area called “Intermixture” in cooperation with Diyang Merino and Joinfair using Coolmax from Invista and yarns from our exhibitor Huafu.  Fusion of function and style.

The collection consists of urban outfits; items worn to and from a workout, on the street and for leisure. Using materials with thermal properties like Coolmax and merino with yarns from Xinao and Südwolle, ‘Intermixture’ compliments the active range.  

Intermixture explores Bonding techniques to strengthen fabric for clean seam finishing and graphic applications, Silicon and rubber embellishments for extra protection and design (both by hand and industrial techniques), and nanotechnology for garment dyeing and printing which minimizes the use of water and energy.

Save the dates 2017

New York – 18-19-20 July 2017

Brooklyn Expo Centre

Shanghai – 29-30-31 August 2017

World Expo Convention & Exhibition Centre Pudong

Blog: www.spinexplore.com

Website: www.spinexpo.com