Boasting 155 registeredexhibiting companieswho came together from 11 countries, the 27th edition of SPINEXPO Shanghai has been one of the largest, most exciting offerings the show has ever witnessed for a Spring/Summer session sinceitsinauguration and ended on a note of overall satisfaction. The show, a fantastic evolution from one edition to the next clearly has its finger on the pulse, continuing to be a comprehensive sourcing platform for emerging trends and market research.

Considering the current business climate and economic slow down worldwideaffectingmost of the trade shows in the first quarter of thisyear, SPINEXPO organiserswere not sure what to expect in term of results. The visitors came out in force and the success of the show was in turn delightfully unexpected. We felt we needed to interview manyvisiting brands from China and overseas to understand why, and to receivecommentsthatcouldbeused as a potentialexplanation.  

Many brands visitother shows before SPINEXPO, the last textile show in the seasoncalendar of events. Most of the visitorswespoke to mentionedit is absolutely imperative for them to find innovation and creativity and real, viable directions to strengthenand enhance theirwork on the season to come. Finding the ‘buzz’ for the season as well as the keys for new product developmentisnowessential for the success of their brand: SPINEXPO has becometheirown personal < laboratory >, an environment wherethey are sure to find superior product quality, innovative ideas and directions essential to the success of the ever-changing textiles and garment industry, thattheycanput to use immediately.

Withthis in mind, and after numerous discussions withour key exhibitors, we have completelyrevised the content of our trend areas that are nowdirectlyunder the show management.  A team of 15 new generation stylists and designers now worktogetherto unveil their visions bringingtheirownpersonal input to the discussed directions analysedby SPINEXPO for the upcoming season.  

The close partnershipthat SPINEXPO has established with itsexhibitorsover the years make possible manyinnovativeprocesses within our relationships, but wealsowitness more and more partnershipsbetweenknitwear machineryequipment manufacturers and spinners, betweenspinners and knitwearmanufacturers who have joined forces, and many new initiatives fromknitwearmanufacturers to offer trend laboratoriessuch as IndHouse at Aussco, or Nuoyi at Xinnuo.  We support these initiatives becausethey are a real back up for ourexhibitorswho in turn develop collections that are more straightforward and readable, as they continuously strive to respond to the buyers’ needs.

Confirming high registration figures, with 4,308 visitors on day one, 7,623 visitorswith 2,649 re-entries on daytwo, and 2,746 visitors with 1,209 re-entries on day three, the 27th edition of SPINEXPO Shanghai has been the best Spring/Summerattendanceeverwith 10,819 visitors reported over the threedays. The number of visitorsfrom China increased by 10%, with a total of 9,347, higherthan the former Autumn/Winter session, but webelievethe explanation for this increase was due to the visitorsfrom the Hosiery show thattook place on the 2ndfloor. On the contrary, with 1,472 visitors from overseas, the numberisisnow stable and wewelcomed an increasednumber of Japanese, US and Europeanbuyers as regularvisitors to the show.

With 480 visitors, Japanwas the highestnumberamongoverseasbuyers. We alsowitnessed an impressive rise of visitingcompanies from Bangladesh and Pakistan a signthat the industryisstrengthening in these countries, which can offer an alternative tomanufacturing in China and Asia.

SPINEXPO^TM re-organisedand revamped its trend areas, an integral element of the show, making them more visually exciting and offering a bettervisibility of productson display in an ambience with a real sense of seasonality. Within the SPINEXPLORE and SPINEXCLUSIVE trend areas, an exciting range of knitted swatches and garmentswere on offer thatrelaxeddress codes, diminishingexcess, steering towards productsthattranscendseasons and are suitable to wear on a year-round basis. And, for the first time in a long time, Japanese-orientedproducts have been verymuchin demand. The ambience in our trend areas spoke of Spring/Summerproducts, withspecial focus on crispyarns, paperyarns, excellent stretch combinations, sophisticated but reasonable in price and appearance.

SPINACTIVE, a research area in a new and unique format, divided in two directions: soft and strong, made possible thanks to Santoni’s help allowed us to use their sophisticated knitting machinery and highly trained technicians, under the direction and expertise of Eva de Laat, A poncho revealing a dual functionality, a new alternative language-cool inside and warm on the outside was by far the most popular. Themoregulationseems to be one of the dominating directions attracting thevisitors, but the fashion aspect of the garmentneeds to bevisible. Technical properties areinteresting,but it needs to be linked with fashion=creation, function and fashion. Wealso received many comments on the section using cashmere fromErdos in activewear design, and of the nicehandle and texture of the knitting on shoes, which also attracted much interest. Fitting the comment of brands interviewedbelow, there was keen interest expressed in different patterns combinations.  More than the shape, customers seem to embrace the visual aspects of knitted stitches and intricate details.Knitted and knitwearpiecesneed to beelegantwith a feel of luxury, and thereis a definite direction in selectingpiecesthatcanbeworn at home as leisurewear. We are at a moment when lace, embroidery, stitching and variouscombinations and fancyyarnsneed to be toned down with more subtle sophistication. Due to e-commerce, colours are becoming increasingly important, having the right colour for the right garment.

Among the brands visiting the show, whenquestioned on the last Autumn/Winter season’s sales, werepeatedly heardthatthereis a come-back for verygraceful and feminineproducts and the best sales go to tops, dresses andaccessories items instead of heavier, more unrefined pieces. Beyond a shadow of a doubt, knitwearremains a sure value, and particularly cocooning type knitwear in soft and comfortableyarns. Sports-oriented brands witness a slow down of their sales except for sweatshirts in beautiful and sophisticatedfabrics, especially when further enhancedwith lace or embroidery.  It clearly shows thatknitweargarments are nowpositioned as an essential part of the seasonalwardrobe for both men and women, and that activewear/sportswearneeds to have a close relationship with fashionin order to continue itsroad to success.

What the buyerswerelooking for wereelaboratedfancyyarns and researchedknitstitchesknitted in beautifulyarnsspeaking for themselves, with no necessity for the sweater itself to be overlycomplicated.  Our SPINEXPLORE trend area, a focal point which has been completelyrenewed and welcomed a large number of swatch designers workingunder the direct direction of SPINEXPO's Top Management wasverywellreceived as SPINEXPO is one of the very few trade shows offeringthis type of presentation.  Visitorscommentedthat for the first time, theycouldfindthe same products at the exhibitors’ boothspresented at the trend area in a more elaboratedway, and that the offer on the trend areas wasnot only innovative, but also had a refreshing new look. Not only were they on the lookout for comfortablenaturalfibres, but alsounexpectedhandles, transparent and shinycoatings, as well as coarser gauges for Spring for everyday use, 100% Merino, silk/cashmere, and cotton/linenwith a soft viscose handle.  Linen and paperyarnsimposedthemselves as the dominant fibres, renewed by finishingtreatments.  

But above all, and beforenewness and innovation, the key wordtodayis <reliability>.  Whetherit relates to basic yarns, cashmere, Merino, silk, fancy yarns, etc…how can a buyertruly know that the productspassed the standard international pilingrequirements? Buyers no longer want to have to test everything themselves. Theywant the mills to try and test theiryarns and sellreliableproductsthatmeet the consumers’requirements and demands.  Theywant to buywith confidence and move forward quickly and safely,. They feelthat the spinnersshouldbeprovidingproductsthat have passed industry standards. This isparticularlytrue in the new trend of activewear.    

SAVE THE DATES

SPINEXPO New York, a trade meeting and ‘must see’ showoffering an overview of the collections for Autumn/Winter2017-18 to the NorthAmericanmarkets,willtake place once again at the Brooklyn Exhibition Centerin Greenpoint, Brooklyn New York with 75 exhibitors meeting 1,500 key playersfrom the US industry,

SPINEXPO Shanghai 28th editionwillbeheld at the Shanghai World Expo Convention and Exhibition Centre 30-31^st August/1^st September and willofferthe finalised collections for the Autumn/Winter 2017-18 season to the global textile sector, bringing together producers with a commitment to excellence with international manufacturers and buyers for branded lines.